Victorian Cloth Patterns - What did they have?

[Matthias Gladstone]

At the moment, i'm looking for some more civilian steampunk wear - i've always been/dressed very nautical/military in my steampunk; as i'm now an engineering student, I want to look more like an engineer. The first things i've been looking at getting are a new waistcoat and a cravat - I was wondering what patterns (as in Paisley etc) the Victorians and Edwardians wore on them? Once I have names I can find appropriate items of clothing; until then i'm stuck. Historical accuracy isn't important, i'm just after the right "feel" for the patterns.

Also, is there any major difference between Victorian and modern trousers (seeing as we're already on the topic of clothing)
-Matt

[Narsil]

Designing patterns for fabric became a big industry in the 19th century and the textiles trade was one of the cornerstones of the Victorian economy.

There were a huge variety of design influences floating around, often adapting traditional patterns from all over the Empire and designs often evolved as they were exported back and  forth. It would also  be worth checking out William Morris's work, being associated with both the Arts and Craft's movement and the Pre Raphaelites his designs have a strong medieval feel.

Of course Victorian engineers tended to be quite hands on and so 'typical' engineers clothing would tend to be practical rather than flamboyant.

[OswaldBastable]

With regards to trousers I believe the main difference was with regards to the cut of the waist; A higher waist than modern styles and often with a the back higher than the front; a fishtailed back being common (The back comes to two points which hold brace buttons).  That's assuming a fairly latish 19th century date and ignoring fall front trousers.

[Matthias Gladstone]

Designing patterns for fabric became a big industry in the 19th century and the textiles trade was one of the cornerstones of the Victorian economy.

There were a huge variety of design influences floating around, often adapting traditional patterns from all over the Empire and designs often evolved as they were exported back and  forth. It would also  be worth checking out William Morris's work, being associated with both the Arts and Craft's movement and the Pre Raphaelites his designs have a strong medieval feel.

Of course Victorian engineers tended to be quite hands on and so 'typical' engineers clothing would tend to be practical rather than flamboyant.

Indeed; perhaps slightly too broad a question then. I'll rephrase as "what were the most popular basic Victorian patterns in the closing decades of the 19th century, excluding tartan, and are still readily available today"; which is still quite broad, but perhaps more feasible to answer.
-Matt

[Jennifer Gates]

At the moment, i'm looking for some more civilian steampunk wear - i've always been/dressed very nautical/military in my steampunk; as i'm now an engineering student, I want to look more like an engineer. The first things i've been looking at getting are a new waistcoat and a cravat - I was wondering what patterns (as in Paisley etc) the Victorians and Edwardians wore on them? Once I have names I can find appropriate items of clothing; until then i'm stuck. Historical accuracy isn't important, i'm just after the right "feel" for the patterns.

Also, is there any major difference between Victorian and modern trousers (seeing as we're already on the topic of clothing)
-Matt

I think paisley and small floral patterns would work really well for that Victorian feel.

[Hez]

Unfortunately the Victorian era was the beginning of men's clothes going boring.  The waistcoat, like modern socks, was the one place you could peacock.
As far as I can tell you are right about small florals and paisleys.  I have also seen plaids, stripes and lozenges which are like paisleys but symmetrical shapes instead of teardrops.

On the other hand you could go a little less historical and a little more exuberant:

[Caledonian]

tartan is also an option for historically accurate patterning. the 19th century was the hight of scottish revival culture and tartan wear was booming after the repeal of the dress act of 1746....in scotland, that is, at least. I do not know what happened in the rest of the world.
(tartan can also be worn on trousers, or indeed a kilt, though this will read less civilian)

[J. Wilhelm]

tartan is also an option for historically accurate patterning. the 19th century was the hight of scottish revival culture and tartan wear was booming after the repeal of the dress act of 1746....in scotland, that is, at least. I do not know what happened in the rest of the world.
(tartan can also be worn on trousers, or indeed a kilt, though this will read less civilian)

In North America, the tartan was incorporated into a material called Flannel.  Obviously the pattern came from cloth imported from the UK, or copied by local mills at least by the late 1700 and early 1800s.

I find it curious that this isn't known across the pond, but tartan flannel shirts replaced the practice of wearing a waistcoat over a white shirt, the latter of which was considered "underwear," hence the need for the waistcoat.

Among working classes, very loud colored patterns of tartans were used. The fashion was wearing tartan trousers and shirts.  The genealogical nature of the tartan was totally lost in the Americas, however.

A perfect example of that is the attire worn by the actors in the movie "Gangs of New York," which takes place sometime in the first half of the 19th C.  That's before the Mexican American War, long before the American Civil War and far far before the Indian Wars (which might be familiar with people outside of the US), and the clothing of the "Gilded Age" which was heavily influenced by French fashion.

[Jennifer Gates]

tartan is also an option for historically accurate patterning. the 19th century was the hight of scottish revival culture and tartan wear was booming after the repeal of the dress act of 1746....in scotland, that is, at least. I do not know what happened in the rest of the world.
(tartan can also be worn on trousers, or indeed a kilt, though this will read less civilian)

In North America, the tartan was incorporated into a material called Flannel.  Obviously the pattern came from cloth imported from the UK, or copied by local mills at least by the late 1700 and early 1800s.

I find it curious that this isn't known across the pond, but tartan flannel shirts replaced the practice of wearing a waistcoat over a white shirt, the latter of which was considered "underwear," hence the need for the waistcoat.

Among working classes, very loud colored patterns of tartans were used. The fashion was wearing tartan trousers and shirts.  The genealogical nature of the tartan was totally lost in the Americas, however.

A perfect example of that is the attire worn by the actors in the movie "Gangs of New York," which takes place sometime in the first half of the 19th C.  That's before the Mexican American War, long before the American Civil War and far far before the Indian Wars (which might be familiar with people outside of the US), and the clothing of the "Gilded Age" which was heavily influenced by French fashion.

Wow, I never knew tartan flannel had that kind of history in North America really interesting.

[J. Wilhelm]

SNIP

Wow, I never knew tartan flannel had that kind of history in North America really interesting.

Indeed, just think about all the examples of Tartan being used in clothing in North America, ranging from everyday clothing, through to uniforms, professional or school, even in religious academy. 

The genealogical meaning of the Tartan was lost, but the device by way of practicality was exported to the rest of the English speaking world

And here's one of my favorite contemporary uses of Tartan

BTW, Gangs of New York is an excellent movie.  I've got to give it a second watch...(also I have an errata: the plot in the movie takes place between the 1840s and the 1860s, but it does show pre-Civil War clothing of the first half of the 19th C. In the USA).

On another subject, I was reading on the repeal of the Dress Act of 1746, which took place in 1782, and contrary to the language used during the enactment of the Act, the language used to announce the repeal was both hilarious and insulting to the Lowlanders:

On 1 July 1782, royal assent was given to the Use of Highland Dress Act 1782 (22 Geo. 3. c. 63) and a proclamation issued in Gaelic and English announced:[3]

    Listen Men. This is bringing before all the Sons of the Gael, the King and Parliament of Britain have forever abolished the act against the Highland Dress; which came down to the Clans from the beginning of the world to the year 1746. This must bring great joy to every Highland Heart. You are no longer bound down to the unmanly dress of the Lowlander. This is declaring to every Man, young and old, simple and gentle, that they may after this put on and wear the Truis, the Little Kilt, the Coat, and the Striped Hose, as also the Belted Plaid, without fear of the Law of the Realm or the spite of the enemies.