The hat and helmet modification thread

[J. Wilhelm]

So I was discussing a couple of very Steampunk looking historical helmets in the Historical Section of the forum. At issue were the wonderful German Pickelhaubes, British Pith Helmets. and American Dress Helmets of the period 1870-1918. They all have similar characteristics but definitely are different from one another.

The problem is, as a Steampunk you want to carry your anachronism into the garments. Modify them so they're not just cheap plastic copies (toys) and at the same time recognising that Steampunk is not an exercise in re-enactment, that you want the sci-fi aspect of Steampunk to show in the garment. Often that will mean that you will be buying something online, or at a brick and mortar shop, and then try to modify it to make it "Steampunk." That is what this thread is for: The hat and helmet modification thread. Post your favourite hats, and then describe what you did to them an why.  No doubt there will be many who also will be making their own hats from scratch. More power to you if you can do that. You're welcome to post here to, though I suspect we have at least one thread dedicated to making hats from scratch.

So for the first post, I continue with my Airship Angel Uniform, which I will post below.... So go ahead! Feel free to start posting!!

Cheers,

J. W.

[J. Wilhelm]

The problem at hand:

I am looking for a helmet similar to a Pickelhaube. The character to wear this helmet is an Airship engineer of Austro-Hungarian origin, a Luftschiffengel, but during the war he was captured by American forces and given the choice to go to a prisoner concentration camp, or switch sides to the American-Prussian (and possibly British) Union, fighting against the U.S. Confederate/French/Austrian-Mexican forces.

In a moment of Chivalry, President Abraham Lincoln (the alternate reality one who survived the assasination attempt by Booth), decides to extend amnesty to the captured Austro-Hungarian Luftschiffengel, and in an extreme act of grace, the US Army re-names them Airship Angels, and also allow for the pressed crew members to wear uniforms reminescent of their Germanic past. A new draft of US Army uniform specifications is issued to the new service branch division of Airship Corps of Engineers.

The Airship Corps of Engineers Officer Service Uniform is comprised of the following:

1. Landing party, Indoors and Warm Weather Service Suit. With Black Denim Lederhosen-style Short Trousers, Brown Woollen Thigh-high Socks, White Short Sleeve Service Shirt with appropriate rank insignia, Navy Canvas Fatigue Blouse (similar to US Civil War shell jackets) with appropriate rank insignia, All Terrain Leather Boots with Brown Suede Gaiters, and a Torso Protection Device for use with lifting harnesses in the form of an Steel Armoured Silk and Brass Corset. Black Felt Bavarian style hat with appropriate rank insignia or service branch insignia (similar to a fusion between a Trlby Hat and a US Cavalry Slouch Hat).

2. Landing Party Cool Weather Service uniform for cooler climes and formal occasions. As above but will include a thick Woollen Navy Winged Cloak Coat instead of the Canvas Fatigue Blouse, Brown Leather Wool-lined Gloves, Long Black Denim Trousers with appropriate rank/service coloured piping, and a Pickelhaube inspired helmet lined for high altitude or alpine weather conditions.

3. High altitude Fatigue Suit, to be determined as of yet - it will be a cross between an Inuit/Eskimo suit and an aviator overall, with built in heating elements with high altitude goggles and oxygen respirator helmet.

This thread would probably cover the latter two elements of the uniform:

1. Pickelhaube inspired helmet lined for high altitude or alpine weather conditions.

2. High altitude goggles and oxygen respirator helmet.

I start with real-world examples, some of which are the pictures I had posted in the other thread:

A Prussian Flamethrowers or Firefighter Protective Helmet probably from WWI, in the period 1914-18

An Austro-Hungarian Couirassier Helmet, ca. 1870. The French wore similar helmets.

An American M1881 Cavalry Officer's Formal Dress Helmet

"Experimental Pickelhaube" developed for Bavarian forces during WWI, for alpine conditions

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So having posted those examples, and taking the Bavarian "Experimental Pickelhaube" at a baseline, I started rummaging the Interwebs for alpine or cold weather caps, looking to see if any could cross the gap between a Pickelhaube and the American Helmet while having some winter-weather features that are more modern than seen in the 1870s (that's the Steampunk part").

This is what I found, online, and through the magic of photoshop, did aq few modifications...

1. Felt cap with foldable fur lined half flap for neck and ears. I'm not tremendously fond of the long duck-bill visor (too modern), but the baseball-hat like shape of the skull cap is similar to the tightness of the Pickelhaube, plus the felt is similar to that of the American Dress Helmets.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Siggi-Men-Wool-Baseball-Fitted-Cap-Winter-Warm-Earflap-Bill-Hat-Black/32729518594.html

The back:

2. PU-leather fur lined cap with foldable half-flap for neck and ears. The duck-bill visor is shorter, which is a good thing. Plus the leather gives it a more Pickelhaube look that the other cap

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AETRENDS-2017-Winter-Bomber-Hats-for-Men-Winter-PU-Leather-Flat-Dad-Hat-Warm-with/32840714371.html

The back:

Unfurled:

3. PU leather and fur cap with full ear, neck and chin flaps (aviator style). I have to work out the details as to how to fold the flaps (these tie together with leather straps), because the base of the Pickelhaube spike is very much going to be in the way of the tips. Perhaps I can make the spike removable, and use the spike itself to hold the two flaps in the :upward position". But for some reason I like this one the best. Perhaps is the fur accent on the visor. Pickelhaubes had very short visors, so this provides a bit of an illusion by dividing the visor into fur and PU leather. The other thing is that with flaps unfurled, this cap really looks like an aviator's hat.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Winter-Cap-Men-Warm-Hat-With-Ear-Flaps-Mens-Faux-Fur-Hat-Mens-Winter-Hat-Ear/2042436157.html

The back:

Detail:

Unfurled (It has a very "Mongolian" look to it, doesn't it?):

In any case, all these caps are very cheap. Often less than $10, the last one is less than $20. It seems a very easy modification to me.

I would have liked to see white fur and beige colours as well, but online, most aviator caps differ in style between men and women. The types above tend to be for men, and thus stick to dark grey, black and dark brown colours. I haven't seen beige and white colours yet, but that would be nice for the Austro-Hungarian uniforms which were usually white.

Any opinions?

JW

[Hurricane Annie]

that actually works very well.   It looks viable and potentially  real .

[Will Howard]

The problem at hand:

Unfurled (It has a very "Mongolian" look to it, doesn't it?):

Any opinions?

JW

I like the "Mongolian" look.  Worn, perhaps, by an Austrian named Genghis Konig?

[J. Wilhelm]

that actually works very well.   It looks viable and potentially  real .

I also have a good feeling for it. It would be paired with this guy, which I still need to wear and photgraph:

Maybe for Xmas, but the problem is it will propabaly take over a month to get here, so it will skip past any potential cold weather here. We did have snow for one night (and I wanted to take pictures) last week though. There's plenty of chance for a few more cold nights.

(snip)

It will be very hard to find Austrian/Prussian eagles...

(snip)

If you have a 3D printshop nearby (and of course can find or make a 3D model for the crest) could one be printed up?

Yours,
Miranda.

A big part of the Pickelhaube look is the giant sprawling eagle in the front of the helmet/hat. Just from the pictures I think that's a big part of it. Besides 3-D printing another posibility is metallic Sculpey/Fimo on a curved metal mesh. I have a fair amount of experience with it. But if you want it to look like real metal, there are very few options other than using real metal.

I would try with Sculpey first, because it's relatively cheap and easy to sculpt. The eagle is fairly wide and distorted and basically needs to be custom made for the helmet's forehead shape and width. Sculpey/Fimo does not paint well (vulnerable to paint solvents), but there are a few premium clays in other brands that are laden with real metal powder. Otherwise I could try to use some painted substrate like water soluble Latex to protect the Sculpey from the solvent, and then use a chrome/golden paint - I've never tried that though.

Here's an article on the subject
https://thebluebottletree.com/metallic-look-on-polymer-clay/

I've also tried infusing real brass powder into epoxy ('cold cast"). The result was not good, the mixture looked more like dark metallic olive green.

Related to casting, I found these soap bar molds with three cavities. The Eagle design spreads just short of 4 inches by 1-7/8 of an inch.
http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/products/american-eagle-soap-mold.aspx

Now, actual metal is not entirely out of the question. I found these stamped brass eagles on Etsy, in 3-1/4 inches X 2 inches, not as big as I need, but definitely workable and only cost $5. Perhaps attached on top of a larger medallion?
https://www.etsystudio.com/listing/513642237/pack-of-2-brass-eagle-american-eagle

The problem at hand:

Unfurled (It has a very "Mongolian" look to it, doesn't it?):

Any opinions?

JW

I like the "Mongolian" look.  Worn, perhaps, by an Austrian named Genghis Konig?

Giving new meaning to the somewhat childish insult "hun" logged against Germans in WWI propaganda.

[Banfili]

It was Kaiser Wilhelm himself who told his soldiers to go and act like the Huns of yore - talk about being hoist by your own petard!
He, being an extremely stupid man, couldn't understand why the world vilified German soldiers for their behaviour during WWI.

[J. Wilhelm]

It was Kaiser Wilhelm himself who told his soldiers to go and act like the Huns of yore - talk about being hoist by your own petard!
He, being an extremely stupid man, couldn't understand why the world vilified German soldiers for their behaviour during WWI.

Indeed, you're correct. And not only that but somehow seems his character reminds me of a certain someone else. Got rid of the smart people in government and ignored the advice of his political supporters and experts. *wink, wink* History definitely repeats itself, doesn't it?

Kaiser Wilhelm II from Wiki

Acceding to the throne in 1888, he dismissed the Chancellor, Otto von Bismarck, in 1890 and launched Germany on a bellicose "New Course" in foreign affairs that culminated in his support for Austria-Hungary in the crisis of July 1914 that led in a matter of days to the First World War. Bombastic and impetuous, he sometimes made tactless pronouncements on sensitive topics without consulting his ministers, culminating in a disastrous Daily Telegraph interview in 1908 that cost him most of his influence.[1] His leading generals, Paul von Hindenburg and Erich Ludendorff, dictated policy during the First World War with little regard for the civilian government. An ineffective war-time leader, he lost the support of the army, abdicated in November 1918, and fled to exile in the Netherlands.

[J. Wilhelm]

Finally!  I just ordered the silly cap. It only took me three months to do it    Finances in Winter can easily be the worse. I simply could not justify the expense until now that the cold weather is going away....   

Sadly the pickelhaube will not be in time for SXSW 2018 as that is staring this Thursday 8. Unless by some miracle the cap was already being shipped from some location in the US Since it's coming from China, I'm assuming it will take 15 days 12 of which is just the time required to leave China, and 3 is the time required from the American airport to my mail box.

The rest of the costume will be ready however, and there's a cosplay contest open for Saturday 17th -at an hour that allows me to attend after work(!). As it happened last year, the weather is warm-ish and very humid (yetch!)

In any case, this is the time to start thinking about that spike and eagle. I may have to do some thinking out of the box, so to speak.

[walking stick]

Eagle belt buckles might include something usable for your design and take a look at finial curtain rod ends for the spike.  These are on Amazon UK.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Goldtone-Drapery-Curtain-Plastic-Finials/dp/B01NCUQQJM/ref=sr_1_128?ie=UTF8&qid=1520334325&sr=8-128&keywords=curtain+rod+decorative+ends

[J. Wilhelm]

Eagle belt buckles might include something usable for your design and take a look at finial curtain rod ends for the spike.  These are on Amazon UK.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Goldtone-Drapery-Curtain-Plastic-Finials/dp/B01NCUQQJM/ref=sr_1_128?ie=UTF8&qid=1520334325&sr=8-128&keywords=curtain+rod+decorative+ends

Dear Ms. Walking Stick,

Thank you for the link. You must have read my mind. That drapery finial does look the part, does it not? Certainly is worth a shot.

From your link above:

I was thinking about curtain finials as well, but ABS plastic was not in my mind. Instead, I was looking at wood and polyurethane finials meant for a) Curtain rods b) Wall moulding accents and c) Wood picket fence finials. What I found online was most interesting. The ideal size of the diameter of the base of the spike should be between 3 and 4 inches. This is what I've found so far at my local shops (which is great because I can pick up at my shop for free, instead of paying for shipping):

A. For the finial itself

1. Curtain finial, in the vein of acorn or pineapple shapes (unspecified size - maybe as large as a gentleman's cane pummel).

https://www.lowes.com/pd/allen-roth-2-Pack-Tobacco-Wood-Curtain-Rod-Finials/50339606

2. Picket Fence Finial. Stamped steel, black painted and 0.75 X 4 inches in size. This one is a good facsimile in shape and size. Excellent price.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fits-Common-Post-Measurement-3-4-in-Actual-1-12-in-x-4-in-Powder-Coated-Steel-Picket-Finial/1000006082

B. For the base/rosette:

1. Wood  moulding accent, round 3.6 X 3.6 inches, a tad expensive, but one of my favourites.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ekena-Millwork-Kent-3-625-in-x-3-625-in-Round-Rubberwood-Rosette/50126151

2. Wood moulding accent, square 3.5 X 3.5 inches. A nice change to match the square spike. Also love the carving.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ekena-Millwork-Acanthus-3-5-in-x-3-5-in-Round-Rubberwood-Rosette/50126169

3. Polyurethane moulding accent, primed in white. Square, 4 X 4 inches. The designs are not as nice as the wooden ones, but the surface is primed for paint.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ekena-Millwork-Attia-4-in-x-4-in-Square-Primed-Urethane-Rosette/1000128763

~ ~ ~

I'm inclined to go for the square or round wooden rosette, oriented diagonally (corners toward the front, back and sides of the helmet), with the black metal spike, and then paint it all with antique brass lacquer, or epoxy...


Something like this (image roughly to scale - used perspective tool in photoshop):

In order to get something like this (I have tot measured the scale - it's just eyeballed):

And if the square base turns out to look too large at nearly 5 inches on the diagonal, one could use the round base that is always 3.6 inches in any direction:

[J. Wilhelm]

At this point, having solved the spike issue, I'll start brainstorming the Eagle decoration. I am definitely going to struggle with this one. There does not seem to be any 3-dimensional object that has an eagle that is appropriate, given the dimensions of the helmet. Generally, Pickelhaubes have a very wide, distorted eagle, for aesthetic purposes, since the decoration must cover the forehead.

In my mind the Seal/Coat of Arms of the US will not look right unless it is similarly distorted and redesigned. A little manipulation of the standard design (and dispensing with the glory (sun beams) and cloud crest yields:

The shape and arrangement of stars was never described in blazon (ie heraldically), nor legally in the Constitution of the US. The stars may have any number of points (we've had six point stars and even seven point stars in early flags and arms), and may be arranged in any order (or disorder). The only thing that is specified is the number (thirteen stars), and the metal - silver in heraldry (white in flag), used to represent the stars. They would look good against the black leather backdrop of the helmet.

Now I'm wondering whether a simple etched brass plate with an enameled blue and red shield would be enough. In the absence of colour, red is represented heraldically by vertical lines and blue by horizontal lines. Silver is blank, and Gold is dotted.

[RJBowman]

I have read of German helmets that had small spike-shaped lanterns instead of solid spikes. An electric version could be interesting; maybe with colored glass.

[J. Wilhelm]

I have read of German helmets that had small spike-shaped lanterns instead of solid spikes. An electric version could be interesting; maybe with colored glass.

I have no clue where you could have read this. It does however beg the question: the spike hardware does look an awful lot like a candle holder, doesn't it? 

As far as I know, there were both removable and fixed spikes. The spikes as well as the coat of arms on the front seemed to differ greatly between German countries, with some styles attributed to Bavaria, others to Prussia, and so on. Some spikes only had a small 3-inch circular base and looked like hollow pipe, unadorned, while others had a large 5 inch cross-like base. Some of the spikes had holes which presumably are for ventilation, and other spikes like the ones used for American helmets were much narrower and sharper (like an arrow head), and looked like the were solid instead of a hollow finial.

I'm basing mine on the American hardware- with a lot of imagination. I now think I had seen those black spikes before at Lowe's. For some reason I had forgotten, or it happened a long time ago before I had decided to make the "helmet". But I clearly remember holding one in my hand.

That's why I write these posts, because quite frankly I can forget things over a long period of time. The thread is like a build diary of sorts, with all my links and photos conveniently arranged.

[J. Wilhelm]

Would this be too busy to etch in brass?

[J. Wilhelm]

Eagle belt buckles might include something usable for your design and take a look at finial curtain rod ends for the spike.  *snip*

Look, Ms. Walking stick! I had not seen this buckle before (Trust me I looked, and 6 months ago I never found anything even close to it. Much less in this extra large size. This one is very promising - need to check the size... It's ~5-3/4 inch / 14.5 cm. Perfect!! $7 plus shipp

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Western-Fashion-Cowboy-3D-Bronze-Color-Eagle-Mens-Metal-Belt-Buckle-Leather-/331036315766

This eagle could easily be perching on the coat of arms

There is this other smaller one with a smidgen less detail, but with the right brass colour...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Copper-color-USA-American-3D-Eagle-belt-buckle-Retail-wholesale-custom-buckle-for-belt-40-mm/32812881473.html

Consider it as good a s purchased!  

~ ~ ~

EDIT:

So this is what I think I have so far:

I'm guesstimating the size of all the components relative to the hat. I'm assuming the hat has an inner diameter of about 17 cm (6-11/16 inch). The outside diameter is a bit hard to judge due to the fur flaps. The design of the eagle at 14.5 cm (5-23/32 inch) is rather large, spanning almost all the diameter of the hat. From the front this arrangement looks great, but the components present a complication in that the eagle will probably need to have its wings bent back a little to match the curvature of the hat, depending on the bulk of the fur sides. Also the design and pose of the eagle preclude the use of the eagle as a supporter for the US (informal) Shield.

I could use the smaller (9 cm / 3-17/32 inch) eagle shown above and perch the eagle on a shield, but that would limit the span of the eagle and the hat would look different than the German counterparts. What I could do instead is try to curve the wings of the eagle (I'll buy two eagles in case I break one) and then buy/make something like a brooch/lapel pin with the shield, to mount on top, between the eagle's wings, like so:

Any opinions? Perhaps leave out the shield?

~ ~ ~

A closeup of the buckle in question:

[walking stick]

The eagle is great. Without the shield IMHO.

The way you have the spike section you would not be able to use the ear flaps, reconfiger to take them into account.

[J. Wilhelm]

The eagle is great. Without the shield IMHO.

The way you have the spike section you would not be able to use the ear flaps, reconfiger to take them into account.

I thought about that. One of the things I wanted to do was to have an inner plate inside the hat with a bolt going through to the spike. Part of the reason was to make the spike removable, as a screw on screw off type of arrangement, but also to use the round or square base as a holder for the flaps. I even thought of having the base be spring loaded.

The square wood block while only being 3.5 in. on the side, on the diagonal is 5 inches. That's quite large. Even if the flaps tie to the spike above the plate, you would still be able to see some of the carved block.

Since I don't have the hat in my hands yet I'll need to have the components to see the relative dimensions.  I don't know how bulky the hat will really be.

[J. Wilhelm]

*snip*
The way you have the spike section you would not be able to use the ear flaps, reconfiger to take them into account.

It just ocurred to be that the shape of a human skull is really oval and not round, hence the hat's perimeter will follow an oval.  There is more room to accomodate the flaps over a wooden plate if instead of using a square or a round plate I use an oval shape such as this 3 X 4-1/4 or a 3.5 X 4.8 inch carved rosette below.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ekena-Millwork-Ashford-3-in-x-4-25-in-Oval-Maple-Rosette/50125357

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ekena-Millwork-Ashford-3-5-in-x-4-875-in-Oval-Rubberwood-Rosette/50125255

If I were to simply place the ear flaps on top of the rosette, I could theoretiaclly use snap fasteners screwed to the wood plate. So instead of making the wood plate removable it could be attached permanently to the PU leather with 4 rivets in the "cardinal directions." Two snap fasteners (buttons) would be screwed to the wood plate and the counterparts be riveted on to the ear flaps.  This way emphasis is given to exposed front and back carved ends of the oval

[walking stick]

I like the oval, though you're right, you'll need to have the hat to get the dimensions accurate.

[J. Wilhelm]

I like the oval, though you're right, you'll need to have the hat to get the dimensions accurate.

Oh! I should learn to read the fine print! I went looking for some of the items at my local hardware store, only to find out they do not carry it in-store. These are special order as priced (free delivery to the store). Unfortunately I will have to wait more than 3 weeks after ordering them 

I could go ahead and order the finial now, and I'll probably have to take a chance and order the wood rosette as well. on account everything takes a month to get. However, the eagle which I ordered on Friday from China will probably arrive earlier. In the meantime I was informed that the hat has already been shipped from China - it could be here next week.

[J. Wilhelm]

The hat has arrived! Very nice. The fur is extremely fluffy, and perfectly black. The artificial leather is very soft. The hat does fit, but some observations:

1. The hat is huge. Don't be fooled by the appearance of a baseball cap in the photos. It's much larger than a baseball cap, but has the same shape. This is a helmet-sized hat (which is a good thing, actually). The interior is a little bigger than I would like, but it fits. The outside is much larger, owing to the fact the entire interior of the cap is lined with fur. So is the underside of the visor, which is pleasantly short, and not overly "duck billed" as so many baseball caps are. The cap vaguely reminds me of the British Bearskin Cap/Shako - just spherical (Yes. Did I mention it's a big hat ? "Yuge" to paraphrase a certain New Yorker).

2. As I write above, the shape of the cap is very bulbous, spherical, even. Its has more than enough space for a circular plate at the top, or whatever else you want. The cap could benefit from some height increasing device to change it's shape, such as the wooden plate I'm trying to use as a base for the finial in the Pickelhaube. This means that the hat will benefit greatly from the "metal" pieces attached to it - and in fact it NEEDS the metal adornments, since the cap is so soft, and also because such a large round black hat looks kind of odd, comical even without any adornments. It needs visual details to make it look like a helmet; it needs some colour and shape to define the cap as a "helmet."

3. The fur-lined flaps tie together at the top with leather suede strips and a square knot (like a shoe lace). They are kind of loose with respect to the rest of the cap. There is more than enough space for the wooden plate underneath, and in fact, it would be desirable to have some volume taken on the top, both to provide a firm base for the skull and for the pickelhaube. Bottom line: there is room.

4. There is more than enough horizontal room to place the 5-1/2 inch eagle in front with room to spare - almost half and inch on each side! I'd say the frontal "leather" area is 6-1/2 inches, but the eagle will need to be bent a little to follow the contour of the cap. The cap front is much wider than I expected, and its because of the spherical shape of the hat.

5. The hat is so nice it'd be a shame to just punch holes in it and rivet stuff into it. That would be a disservice. I would want to have all the accessory elements of the hat like the spike and plate detachable by way of snap buttons; the big snap buttons as you have in leather jacket closures. The wood plate is ideal to have the "male" side of the snap buttons be screwed into the wood with small screws. Four snap buttons for the plate and spike assembly, and two fro the flaps over the wood plate. The "female" side of the snap buttons, it's best to rivet them in place, like regular snap buttons, using the special tool for snap buttons, and using golden or black snap buttons if at all possible. To make it look as professional as possible. The leather straps can stay (as they serve to tie the flaps as a chin strap), or the can go, replaced by another snap button - that is optional.

Very exiting!

I remain AYS

J. Wilhelm

[J. Wilhelm]

PS... Now to get the spike. I'm not thrilled on having to wait so long for the spike. I finally remembered where I saw the spike. It was on a metal fence on my way to work!   Trouble is, I have already waited a long time for this hat. And now I have to add another month to the build. I swear, I'm just going to walk around the neighbourhood and steal a finial from the first metal fence I see  

Will I go to hell if I still a finial from the fence of the Shriner's Temple lodge? Or do I just lose membership?  Maybe the Rotary Club is safer. I won't take it from the Freemasons. They have too many connections!

[Miranda.T]

PS... Now to get the spike. I'm not thrilled on having to wait so long for the spike. I finally remembered where I saw the spike. It was on a metal fence on my way to work!   Trouble is, I have already waited a long time for this hat. And now I have to add another month to the build. I swear, I'm just going to walk around the neighbourhood and steal a finial from the first metal fence I see  

Will I go to hell if I still a finial from the fence of the Shriner's Temple lodge? Or do I just lose membership?  Maybe the Rotary Club is safer. I won't take it from the Freemasons. They have too many connections!

I can sympathise; I know just how frustrating it can be when you have an idea you want to put into action and you're stymied in doing so. But you have company - we will have to be just as patient in awaiting the next installment of this build 

Yours,
Miranda.

[J. Wilhelm]

PS... Now to get the spike. I'm not thrilled on having to wait so long for the spike. I finally remembered where I saw the spike. It was on a metal fence on my way to work!   Trouble is, I have already waited a long time for this hat. And now I have to add another month to the build. I swear, I'm just going to walk around the neighbourhood and steal a finial from the first metal fence I see  

Will I go to hell if I still a finial from the fence of the Shriner's Temple lodge? Or do I just lose membership?  Maybe the Rotary Club is safer. I won't take it from the Freemasons. They have too many connections!

I can sympathise; I know just how frustrating it can be when you have an idea you want to put into action and you're stymied in doing so. But you have company - we will have to be just as patient in awaiting the next instalment of this build  

Yours,
Miranda.

The next instalment will come sooner than that, because the eagle is coming, presumably arriving at the end of the month. I may look for a faster supplier for the finial and wood trim. As it stands it takes exactly one month to get either from the hardware store. I just found out there are faster alternatives.

There are some local fence suppliers. This one has a store in Austin and sells cast iron, stamped steel, aluminium finials and even plastic ones (though I don't see the point getting a plastic one other than saving weight). I think that probably 4 inches is the tallest you'd want. The best candidate sems to be the aluminium. The iron ones may be too heavy or too large but they look very nice too.

Cast Aluminium 3-7/8 inches $0.74 (Shipping is $7, but I may be able to pick it up in person for $0)
https://www.tsdistributors.com/store/p/833-Aluminum-Ball-Point-Spear.aspx

Cast Iron 4 inches
https://www.tsdistributors.com/store/p/776-1/2-Cast-Iron-Ball-Point-Finial.aspx
https://www.tsdistributors.com/store/p/742-1/2-Cast-Iron-Spear-Point-Finial.aspx

Cast Brass 4.5 inches (this one is over $5)
https://www.tsdistributors.com/store/p/831-3-Point-Brass-Spear.aspx

This other seller is in Dallas.

I particularly like this Aluminium 4 inch finial:
http://www.kingmetals.com/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=3021

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Happy surprise: Oddly enough I remembered Lowe's hardware is owned by Walmart. It is no surprise then that some items could be found at Walmart, with free pickup by the end of the month (just one week).

This is not the most interesting rosette I saw, but the 4X4 Acanthus is available for only $4.91
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ekena-Millwork-Springtime-4-1-4-H-x-4-1-4-W-x-5-8-D-Rosette/35359552

This one is available for $12 (same size)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ekena-Millwork-Acanthus-4-1-4-H-x-4-1-4-W-x-5-8-D-Rosette/35318817

And the 4-7/8 X 3-1/2 oval one that I wanted is $15.80 in Alder Wood, $7.40 in Rubberwood
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ekena-Millwork-Ashford-4-7-8-H-x-3-1-2-W-x-1-D-Oval-Rosette/35348667
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ekena-Millwork-Ashford-4-7-8-H-x-3-1-2-W-x-1-D-Oval-Rosette/35345805

[J. Wilhelm]

Wooden plate purchased for $8 including tax. Free pickup at a covenient location this Friday  Now to call the fence guys...